INTRODUCTION: WHY THIS GUIDE EXISTS

There is no fashion house in the world where leather carries the weight, cultural meaning, and collector influence that it does at Hermès. Across the last century, Hermès has built a reputation far beyond craftsmanship — a reputation rooted in materials science, artisanal mastery, rarity, and consistency, unmatched by any other luxury brand.

When a collector chooses an Hermès bag, they aren’t merely choosing a colour or a silhouette. They are choosing:

• a type of grain

• a philosophy of structure or softness

• a long-term aesthetic

• an aging pattern

• an investment trajectory

• a relationship with craftsmanship

And among all Hermès leathers, three stand above the rest in modern production:

• Togo

• Clemence

• Epsom

These three leathers shape 80%+ of all Hermès bag offerings today — from the Kelly and Birkin to the Evelyne, Constance, Picotin, and Lindy.

Collectors obsess over the differences, and rightly so.

Because in Hermès, leather is destiny.

It determines:

• whether your bag slouches

• whether it holds a crisp structure

• whether corners darken

• whether colour pops or remains muted

• whether resale value grows or stays flat

• whether it looks formal or casual

• whether it becomes softer or stays rigid

• whether it ages into beauty or needs maintenance

This guide is the ultimate reference, designed for serious Hermès collectors who understand that a leather discussion is not a fashion conversation — it is a technical, material-science, artisanal, and investment conversation.

No resellers, no blogs, and no fashion media provide this level of depth.
This is crafted to be the #1 Hermès leather guide on the internet, period.

CHAPTER 1 — HERMÈS AND THE ART OF LEATHER: A 180-YEAR TRADITION

Hermès began not as a fashion house, but as a harness and saddle maker in Paris in 1837. Its earliest clients were European nobility — people for whom durability and craftsmanship were not luxuries, but requirements.

Hermès’ reputation was built on leather long before clothing, scarves, or handbags existed.

This history shapes everything the house does today.

Hermès approaches leather selection with a philosophy built on four pillars:

1. Material Integrity

Hermès does not compromise on raw material.
It sources hides directly, selecting only those which meet strict criteria:

• uniform grain density

• minimal blemishes

• structural integrity

• durability

• ability to take dye consistently

• surface absorption potential

• long-term resilience

Only 5–10% of raw hides meet Hermès’ standards.

This is one of the reasons Hermès production is limited.
Most leather never makes it past selection.

2. Craftsmanship

Every Hermès bag is stitched by a single artisan — a philosophy unique in the luxury industry.

The artisan adjusts:

• tension

• stitching angle

• cutting technique

• edge finishing

• grain alignment

• structural reinforcements

based on the leather.

A Kelly in Togo requires a different touch than a Kelly in Epsom. A Birkin in Clemence must be handled differently than a Birkin in Togo.

The result is a profound, material-driven art form.

3. Leather-Specific Design

Hermès does not force leathers onto bag designs.

Instead:

THE LEATHER DETERMINES THE DESIGN.

This is why you will rarely see:

• Kelly Sellier in Clemence

• Kelly Sellier in Swift

• Evelyne in Epsom

• Picotin in Epsom

• Mini Kelly in Clemence

Hermès respects the characteristics of each leather.

This principle is key to understanding why some combinations are rare — and why certain models perform better in certain leathers.

4. The Collector's Market

Hermès unintentionally created the world’s most sophisticated resale economy.

Leather plays a central role in determining:

• resale value

• rarity

• long-term price progression

• collector desirability

• historical significance

This guide will explore all of this in depth.

CHAPTER 2 — THE SCIENCE OF LEATHER: A MATERIALS OVERVIEW

Before diving into specific leathers, understanding the material science behind Hermès leather helps explain:

• grain differences

• structural differences

• weight differences

• aging differences

What Is Grain?

Grain is the natural pattern on the leather surface, determined by:

• the animal’s hide structure

• age

• skin thickness

• environmental factors

• finishing process

Togo and Clemence both have natural pebbled grain, but from different animals and with different grain size.

Epsom is embossed, meaning the pattern is applied to the leather rather than naturally formed.

What Determines Structure?

Structure is influenced by:

• fiber density

• thickness

• tanning method

• finishing

• moisture retention

This is why:

• Epsom is crisp

• Togo is in between

• Clemence becomes soft

What Determines Weight?

Weight is influenced by:

• animal type

• skin thickness

• finishing

• natural oil content

• density of fibers

Clemence is heavier because it comes from bull hide.

Epsom is lighter because it is thinner and embossed.

Togo sits in the middle.

CHAPTER 3 — TOGO LEATHER: THE MODERN HERMÈS ICON

Togo was introduced in 1997, during a period when Hermès wanted a leather that balanced structure and softness, something that would offer durability without sacrificing elegance.

Togo quickly became the house’s most in-demand leather.

THE CHARACTERISTICS OF TOGO

Grain

• Semi-raised pebbled grain

• Moderately irregular

• Mid-sized pores

• Veins may appear naturally

Texture

• Soft but structured

• Pleasant hand-feel

• Matte with subtle sheen

Weight

• Medium-light

• Comfortable for daily wear

• Lighter than Clemence

Structure Retention

• Exceptional

• A Birkin or Kelly in Togo maintains shape for decades

AGING & LONG-TERM PERFORMANCE

Collectors love Togo because it ages beautifully.

Over time:

• The grain softens slightly

• The sheen increases

• Corners stay relatively resistant to scuffs

• Structure remains intact

• Vein lines become more subtle

• Colour deepens slightly

A Togo Birkin 30 from 2006 looks better in 2025 than when new — the hallmark of a high-quality material.

COLOUR PERFORMANCE IN TOGO

Togo absorbs colour well without oversaturation.

Best-selling colours in Togo:

• Etoupe

• Gold

• Black

• Rose Jaipur

• Blue Nuit

• Craie

• Biscuit

• Rouge H

Collectors particularly value Etoupe Togo — it is considered one of the most beautiful combinations Hermès has ever released.

MODELS THAT PERFORM BEST IN TOGO

• Kelly 25 / 28 / 32

• Birkin 30 / 35

• Picotin

• Lindy

• Bolide

INVESTMENT OUTLOOK

Togo has the most stable resale value among all Hermès natural-grain leathers.

Reasons:

• Versatility

• Durability

• High demand globally

• Balanced aesthetics

• Structurally reliable for 20–30 years

Investment Rating: 10/10

Collectors consider Togo the “blue-chip” leather of Hermès.

CHAPTER 4 — CLEMENCE LEATHER: THE SOFT LUXURY CLASSIC

Clemence, known formally as Veau Taurillon Clemence, is one of the softest and most luxurious Hermès leathers. Introduced in the 1980s, it quickly gained popularity for its supple texture and beautiful slouch.

THE CHARACTERISTICS OF CLEMENCE

Grain

• Large, round pebbling

• Uniform pattern

• Matte finish

• Soft to the touch

Texture

• Supple and luxurious

• More relaxed feel than Togo

Weight

• Heavy (bull hide)

• Heavier than Togo or Epsom

• Can add noticeable weight to larger models

Structure Retention

• Low

• Slouches over time

• Bottom sag is common

AGING & LONG-TERM PERFORMANCE

Clemence develops character — something collectors value.

Over time:

• The leather softens significantly

• Slouch increases

• Grain smooths

• Corners may soften

• Colour deepens

• Natural patina forms

While Clemence bags lose structure, many collectors love the relaxed look.

COLOUR PERFORMANCE IN CLEMENCE

Clemence absorbs colour deeply due to the soft grain and high oil content.

Best colours include:

• Blue Jean

• Rouge H

• Raisin

• Vert Olive

• Noir

• Etoupe

• Gris Tourterelle

Clemence works particularly well for earthy, muted tones.

MODELS THAT PERFORM BEST IN CLEMENCE

• Picotin

• Evelyne

• Lindy

• Garden Party

• Kelly Retourne

Large Clemence Birkins are iconic for their slouch, but not ideal for collectors who prefer crisp structure.

INVESTMENT OUTLOOK

Clemence resale varies strongly by model.

On structured bags (Kelly Sellier, Birkin 25):
→ generally weaker.

On casual bags (Picotin, Evelyne, Lindy):
→ excellent.

Investment Rating: 7.5/10

Clemence is not a top investment leather, but it has strong demand in certain categories and colours.

CHAPTER 5 — EPSOM LEATHER: THE STRUCTURED, LIGHTWEIGHT POWERHOUSE

Epsom is the most structured, lightweight, and colour-vibrant Hermès leather in modern production. It is embossed calfskin, meaning the grain pattern is pressed into the leather.

THE CHARACTERISTICS OF EPSOM

Grain

• Fine, consistent grain

• Uniform pattern

• Crisp and structured

Texture

• Slightly firm

• Light hand-feel

• Elegant

Weight

• Lightest Hermès leather

• Ideal for travel and daily wear

Structure Retention

• Best of all Hermès leathers

• Maintains crisp silhouette for decades

AGING & LONG-TERM PERFORMANCE

Epsom ages extremely well if cared for properly.

Over time:

• Scratches may appear

• Corners remain crisp

• Colour remains vivid

• Structure remains unchanged

• Surface can show indentations

It is the leather that holds its look for the longest time.

COLOUR PERFORMANCE IN EPSOM

Epsom produces the brightest colours of any Hermès leather.

Top colours include:

• Rose Sakura

• Rouge Casaque

• Bleu Atoll

• Jaune Ambre

• Vert Criquet

• Vert Verone

• Craie

Rare Epsom colours routinely command high resale value.

MODELS THAT PERFORM BEST IN EPSOM

• Kelly Sellier (25, 28, 32)

• Birkin 25

• Constance 18 / 24

• Mini Kelly

• SLGs

Epsom is rarely used for casual styles such as Picotin or Evelyne.

INVESTMENT OUTLOOK

Epsom is one of the strongest investment leathers due to:

• high structure retention

• vivid colours

• rarity in small bags

• high collector demand

Investment Rating: 10/10

Epsom Kellys & Constances consistently outperform other leather types in resale value.

CHAPTER 6 — ADVANCED COMPARISON: TOGO vs CLEMENCE vs EPSOM

This chapter provides a technical, collector-grade breakdown unequalled anywhere online.

STRUCTURE RETENTION

SOFTNESS

WEIGHT

SCRATCH RESISTANCE

COLOUR PERFORMANCE

RAIN & WATER RESISTANCE

Clemence + Togo handle moisture better due to natural grain and thicker construction.
Epsom can warp if soaked.

CHAPTER 7 — MODEL-SPECIFIC BUYING ADVICE

KELLY

• Sellier → Epsom

• Retourne → Togo

• Not ideal in Clemence (too soft)

BIRKIN

• 25 → Epsom

• 30 → Togo

• 35 → Togo or Clemence

• 40 → Clemence

CONSTANCE

• Epsom is the gold standard

• Togo secondary

PICOTIN

• Designed for Clemence

• Works beautifully in this leather

EVELYNE

• Clemence ONLY

• Never buy in Epsom

CHAPTER 8 — RARITY, LIMITED PRODUCTION & SPECIAL EDITIONS

A breakdown of production trends:

Togo

• High availability

• Consistent production

• Rare colours: Etoupe, Craie, Rose Sakura

Clemence

• High availability

• Common in casual bags

• Rare colours: Vert Olive, Blue Jean (early years), Raisin

Epsom

• Lower availability

• High demand

• Rare colours: Rose Sakura, Gris Tourterelle, Vert Verone, Vert Criquet

CHAPTER 9 — RESALE MARKET ANALYSIS (2025)

BEST PERFORMING LEATHERS

• Epsom Kelly Sellier

• Epsom Constance

• Togo Birkin 30

STRONG PERFORMERS

• Togo Kelly 28

• Clemence Picotin 18

• Epsom Mini Kelly

WEAK PERFORMERS

• Large Clemence Birkins (35/40)

CHAPTER 10 — CARE & MAINTENANCE (PROFESSIONAL LEVEL)

Togo

• Use organizer

• Condition every 6–9 months

• Avoid over-dry environments

Clemence

• Avoid heavy loads

• Store upright

• Professional steaming for shape

Epsom

• Gentle wiping

• Avoid dents

• Protect edges carefully

CHAPTER 11 — WHICH LEATHER SHOULD YOU CHOOSE? (COLLECTOR PROFILES)

FOR FIRST-TIME HERMÈS BUYERS

→ Togo

FOR INVESTORS

→ Epsom (Kelly Sellier, Constance)

FOR DAILY USE

→ Togo or Clemence

FOR COLOUR LOVERS

→ Epsom

FOR RELAXED AESTHETICS

→ Clemence

CONCLUSION: THE SAIKA EDITION

Togo, Clemence, and Epsom each represent a different expression of Hermès craftsmanship:

• Togo → balanced, timeless, perfect

• Clemence → soft, effortless, luxurious

• Epsom → structured, vivid, investment-grade

Understanding the difference is essential for building a sophisticated Hermès collection — and choosing pieces with strong long-term value.

This guide is designed to give you the most detailed, authoritative, and complete leather knowledge available anywhere online.